Merz b. Schwanen’s 206 Loopwheel Long-sleeve Henley is a true vintage classic that takes design cues from original 1920s henleys. These henleys use the same two-thread fabric that is found on their popularized 215 Crew Neck Tee, one that is both sturdy and comfortable on the skin. Read on to find out more about how this henley wears, sizing information, and how this garment fares over time.

Also, be sure to check out our Merz b. Schwanen Brand Spotlight with owners, Peter Plotnicki and Gitta Plotnicki, as well as our two other extensive reviews on Merz knits – our sizing and shrinkage article to help you dial in your fit, as well as our Merz tee comparison to help you identify which fabric and style is for you.

These posts are part of our Worn series where we highlight and showcase some of the pieces we proudly carry to show how they wear over time. Not only so that you have a better idea of what to expect – or look forward to – as you wear them in, but also to have a larger space for us to go into what makes each unique in its own way.

IS THE HENLEY FOR ME?

Before we get into the nitty gritty of sizing and material details, the first question many of you may need to tackle is whether the henley is for you. Honestly, I was one that wasn’t too keen on henleys at first. Some days I think they are a bit too traditional-looking for me, other days they just seem like an awkward looking t-shirt with buttons, and then lastly it was hard to shake the feeling that henleys were meant as an undergarment. It took some trial and error with outfits, some starts and stops with it, and some inspiration from Instagram, to find my stride with the long-sleeve henley.

While I don’t think everyone needs to have a henley in their wardrobe, I do think there are many folks who are on the fence who could really benefit from having a long-sleeve henley in their lineup of basics. I’ve found the henley to be a much easier piece to work into my outfits than originally perceived – it’s basically a step up from a basic long-sleeve t-shirt.

The easiest and most practical use of a henley, and as was originally intended, is as a comfortable undergarment. Often times we’ll pull for a short-sleeve or long-sleeve crewneck t-shirt to wear under our button-up shirts and flannels. You can just as easily replace that simple crewneck with a henley version and you’ve got a slightly more interesting look depending on if you leave your top few buttons un-done or not. If not, then no one will know any better; and you’ve got a versatile piece that you can transition back-and-forth between an undergarment and a standalone base layer.

With the henley, and specifically the Merz b. Schwanen 206 long-sleeve henley, the wider neck opening and the button-up front lends itself to be a piece that makes for an excellent base layer, and can lengthen the overall look of your outfit and provide a complementary look with button-up shirts. The henley can and should be able to be an easy go-to staple in your lineup of everyday knits.

If this sounds good to you, please read on to see what the Merz b. Schwanen 206 Long-sleeve Henley is all about!

HOW DO I WEAR THE HENLEY?

What piqued my interest in the Merz b. Schwanen 206 Long-sleeve Henley at first was seeing our good friend Matt Rho (@rhomatt), formerly with Shockoe Atelier, and his well-worn 206 Henley in the Nature color. Matt has got a knack for putting together some simple yet effective layering with the henley.

The Nature colorway works well with a nice worn-in pair of faded denim, and Matt does a fine job showing a few different looks with the Merz henley. With his permission, we’ve including several outfits from his Instagram, but all generally encompassing a similar vintage workwear style.

As Matt shows, I’ve found the henley to provide a nice aesthetic when working it in with some of the more unique pieces in one’s wardrobe (a la his vintage-styled vests). Again, it’s a base layer so there’s no getting away from that. But I’ve found it adds a nice touch with some workwear outerwear, such as the vest, chore coat, or fatigue shirt. It certainly adds to the overall workwear aesthetic of these pieces, especially if you leave one or two of the top buttons undone, which Matt fully embraces for that deep-V look.

Below are a few plain and simple outfits with just a pair of his well-worn repaired / boro-patchwork denim.

Matt wears the Merz b. Schwanen henley quite fitted – slim through the arms and upper chest, and though you can’t quite see it, is also slim through the torso. I think the key to wearing the henley is to get the sizing down for a fitted look, and getting in tons of wear such that it looks like a shirt that you’ve worn for years. Some of you may balk at the “get sizing right” comment (like, no shit sherlock), but I think it’s much more essential for the henley to look fitted/slim than too relaxed. This doesn’t mean you have to be slim to wear a henley, you can have a husky build or have more mass all around and it’ll still look good. It’s just that the henley will probably look better if you lean towards a more slim and modern look, versus an oversized and relaxed fit. As a corollary, there are some pieces like a sweatshirt that can look great both in a slim fit and in a more relaxed fit.

HOW DOES IT FIT, WHAT ABOUT SHRINKAGE?

The Merz b. Schwanen 206 Long-sleeve Henley is cut in their “Classic Fit,” which is what we’d generally call the slim fit. That said, these aren’t going to be super slim or skin tight, unless you are on the upper end of your size. There’s room in these, especially due to the triangular patch under the arms, to move around and not feel constrained.

Generally speaking, you’ll want the henley to look slightly long when you first put it on, as these reliably shrink 1-2” in length, depending on how you wash it (temperature, duration, hang-dry vs machine-dry, etc.). For the width across the body, with multiple washes and wears, the fabric should tighten up a tad, but overall should end up at the original widths, if not slightly wider over time.

I’m wearing size 6|L in both the Army (brand new from 2024 production) and Grey Melange (worn for several years) in the photos below. The length only appears a tad shorter, but it definitely has shrunk a solid 2″ from its beginning length. This specific run of Merz henleys from several years back was cut a bit longer from the factory (see more information on shrinkage in our Merz b. Schwanen – Sizing and Shrinkage article).

WHAT DOES THE FABRIC FEEL LIKE?

The Merz b. Schwanen 206 Henley uses the same two-thread fabric as the popular Merz b. Schwanen 215 Crew Neck Tee. It has a nice balance of a soft tee, yet with a crisp bent and dry feel to it. The additional weight of this two-thread fabric adds a nice structure to the henley.

Certainly with wear, the henley will begin to soften and drape a little better, but one of the best things about this loopwheeled two-thread fabric is how it maintains its quality and feel over time. You don’t need to worry about pilling of the fabric, or waking up one day with a henley that has a coarser feel due to multiple washes. The two-thread fabric is the best of both worlds in terms of structure and comfort.

ANY OTHER IMPRESSIONS, ALTERNATIVES?

The Merz b. Schwanen 206 Henley is quite impressive to see how well it has held up. The stitching/construction shows no signs of breaking or falling apart, and the fabric has softened considerably since the beginning, and the drape is also much better now than it was brand new. I’ve probably been the hardest on this henley out of all my Merz knits, as it’s gone into the dryer numerous times.

One thing that is somewhat common to Merz’s tees is the wider-than-normal neck opening. I would say these do start off slightly wider than average, but it can also vary from run to run. For those who are more sensitive to wider neck openings, this henley may not be for you. Accordingly, with several years of wear the neck has widened even more due to a combination of just normal wear, but also due to having an infant now who occasionally pulls on my collar.

Additionally, if you’re looking for a beefier version for winter, Merz does have the 2S04 lineup of henleys that are cut in their relaxed fit, versus their classic (slim) fit, and clocks in at a notable 14oz weight. Accordingly, for sizing you can possibly size down one for a slimmer fitting henley, but note that it is a less forgiving fabric in terms of stretch. So if you do take one size down from your 206 Henley, know that while it may look a bit more similar in terms of a slimmer fit, the feel will likely be a bit more constricting.

Another henley option from Merz is their 102 Vintage Henley, which is available as a 4.6oz cotton-viscose blend. This henley is much thinner and has a silkier feel on the body due to the viscose. I would highly recommend the 102 henley for those who want to primarily wear the henley as an undergarment and also as an at-home loungewear piece, as it does feel very comfortable!

Shop our collection of Merz b. Schwanen 206 Loopwheeleed henleys, as well as their other lightweight and heavyweight henleys on our website.